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Travelogue on Srinagar-Part II

by Harjeet Kaur
January 16, 2025
in Travel
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Painting of Kashmir

 

Travelogue on Srinagar-Part II

This post is a part of Blogchatter Half Marathon. This is the Travelogue on Srinagar-Part II ; The Srinagar chronicles continue and I wish by the time they end I am there again! Wishful thinking or is it possible? Kashmir has always been on the top of my bucket list but somehow evasive. I have no idea why the media has created a scare about visiting Kashmir. Surely,

I can vouch that Srinagar is as safe a place as any other metro and I was wandering on my own the whole time. There are many places that I still wanted to see. In this Travelogue on Srinagar-Part II, Let me take you around to the Winterfell Café, Floating market, the historical Hazrat Bal mosque, the Jamia Masjid, Lal Chowk, and Downtown.

Winterfell Cafe

My daughter was working, and believe me, she works really hard and the only time she stepped out with me was on a Sunday afternoon to Winterfell Café; their interiors are themed on the Game of Thrones. She said there was a storytelling session and booked tickets. I went thinking I was going to listen to some novel stories. But to my surprise, it was a storytelling workshop and we were going to be participants.

I enjoyed the buzz created by the young girls around me. All of them were wearing a hijab and were very articulate, confident, and knew what they wanted to achieve in life. Now I had never heard of Kommune; the storytellers Hari Sankar and Shamir Reuben.  I realized that they were quite popular with the young crowd. Yes, I was the oldest participant there but then that was fine by me. I was the first one to be called to tell my story. And I was really surprised to be applauded by the youthful crowd there.

Winterfell CafeWinterfell Cafe

Floating Market

The floating market was next on my agenda but that was at dawn around 5.30 to 7 am. I had to book a shikara in advance and asked the driver, Latif to pick me up at 5. It seemed an unearthly hour but I was awake before the alarm went off;  ready and waiting for the driver. Dawn was just breaking and the sky was blushing like a rose.

I stepped onto the shikara gingerly and settled down imbuing the panoramic view in my heart; capturing it in my shutter lens. I actually wished I was a better photographer. The name of the shikara was New King of Kashmir, wonder who the old was!

Dal Lake and the Lotus

We passed infinite stretches of pale pink lotus that looked ethereal in the morning light. The lotus flower, with its exquisite Corolla, blooms all over the Dal and is an enthralling vision of delicate shades of pink and white. The lake is dotted with Boathouses and each has a really fancy name.

There are all kinds of stores in the lake selling groceries, vegetables, cigarettes, and even live poultry. What made me really happy was to see gender equality on the lake; there were women paddling canoes. This was a very uplifting moment for the woman in me.

Travelogue on Srinagar-Part II

The only one of its kind in India, the floating market is where vegetable sellers sell their ware from 5 am to 7 am. This is on the Dal lake and the rest head to the local market. Veggies are fresh and grow alongside the lake. The market is popular and many tourists come especially to take pictures. 

When the shikara took a turn, I got sight of the place: agog with sellers wooing their buyers in innovative ways was invigorating. The vegetable sellers had local customers while the spice, woolens, imitation jewelry, and flower sellers, cozied up to the tourist shikaras. They struck up lively conversations and followed them back to the pier.

Kashmiris have a gift of the gab

The guy with the spices was speaking in immaculate English and tried to sell me saffron, cinnamon, kahwa, cardamom at exorbitant prices.  Another pulled up along the other side of the shikara and displayed leather bags and woollen scarves.

I was pretty amused by their selling skills and succumbed to the flowing tongue of the flower seller. I don’t know if the lotus seeds will ever sprout but the way he entertained me was worth the money I paid him. He gifted me a small bunch of flowers and said that a gift worth a rupee is worth a million; free gyaan!

I picked up silver filigree trinkets from a grey-haired gentleman who was sailing alongside my shikara patiently. Only when the others moved away did he try to sell his wares. He took out exquisite pieces from his treasure chest and I had to use all my bargaining skills to buy what I wanted at a price I felt was reasonable.

The Kind Shikarawala

The sun was out now and most of the sellers were rowing out with their almost empty canoes. My shikarawala was a kind old man and offered me Noon chai and Lavasa; the first taste of noon chai or pink chai (noon means salty) I usually don’t take milk but I wanted to taste it and it wasn’t bad at all.  We headed back to the pier while the spectacular sunrise with its golden hues was reflecting on the blue-green waters of the lake radiating a magical aura.

Kind Shikara ManSunrise on the DalBreak of dawn on the DalHouseboats on the Dal LakeShops on the Dal LakeFloating Market Dal LakeLotus field on the DalWomen canoeing on the Dal Lake KashmirDal lake Floating Market Trinket sellerSilver Filigree Jewellery Floating Market Srinagar

Dal LakeDal Lake

Travelogue on Srinagar-Part II

Shankaracharya Temple

The Shankaracharya Temple is on top of the Gopadari Hill on the Zabarwan Mountain and is dedicated to Lord Shiva. It is at a height of 1,000 feet above the plain and overlooks the city.  Actually, it dates to 200 BC and was visited by Adi Shankaracharya and this is how the temple got the name Shankaracharya. It is also regarded as sacred by Buddhists.

The Shiv Ling was placed inside during the Sikh period in the 19th century. It became an active Hindu temple when regular services were conducted. The last time I was in Srinagar, I did sprint up.  I wished I was decades younger again and could climb the 250 odd steps to the temple to have a panoramic view of the city. But my bad back would not have taken it well so I just went up halfway and soaked in the view from there.

View from Shankaracharya Temple Srinagarview  from shankaracharya templeView from Shankaracharya Temple

Hazratbal

The day I visited the gardens was a Friday and I avoided going to the Hazratbal Mosque as it would be really crowded. So I set out the next day this time in an auto-rickshaw. Ashraf the driver was pointing out all the important spots en route. It is on the left bank of the lake and is one of the holiest places in the state. The dargah houses a priceless relic; Moi-e-Muqaddas, a sacred hair of Prophet Muhammad.

This relic is publicly displayed during the festivals and there is a huge fair outside.  In the early 17th century, Sadiq Khan, the subedar of Emperor Shahjahan, had built a palatial edifice and garden which was later converted into a prayer house on the orders of Shahjahan.

Holy Relic

The holy relic arrived in Kashmir during the reign of Aurangzeb and was kept in the shrine of Naqashbad Sahib. But in time the thronging crowds could not have a glimpse of the relic and hence it was shifted to Hazratbal. The entrance to the mosque is lined with various food and other vendors selling vegetables, fruits, and even terra cotta pots. It took 11 years to build the Mosque and is the only domed mosque in Srinagar.

The pristine white marble façade reflects in the waters of the lake. Women are not allowed inside and I peered through the grilled gates but there was nothing I could see. I walked around the wide-open courtyard and saw families picnicking, kids playing, a young man trying to catch some elusive fish and of course many were taking a ride on the shikaras.

Hazratbal MosqueHazratbal MosqueHazratbal MosqueHazratbal MosqueHazratbalHazratbal Mosque

Lal Chowk & Downtown

My daughter, Esha and I went shopping to Lal Chowk to stock up the kitchen and I had a good look at the market I have read so much in the newspaper headlines. Another moniker for it is Clock Tower or Ghanta Ghar.  It is THE place where all sorts of protests take place and the flag hoisted on Independence Day and is closely guarded by the militia. But all was calm while I was there. I sighted many bookstores in the market and even while talking to people I came across, education was given a lot of importance.

Downtown

Downtown was typical of most wholesale markets in the country and the stores openly displayed their wares. Kashmir is renowned for its handicrafts like carpets, shawls, silk, crewel stitched, and embroidered fabrics. Also, walnut wood carvings, papier mache products, namdas or rugs, and basketry. And of course, the silken soft pashmina shawls made from cashmere wool that is incredibly priced and coveted. I was chiefly looking for copper products but I knew I could not carry much stuff. Copper and Silver Ware stores were Downtown and that’s where I went to just to browse around but ended up buying a copper plate and a very fancy spoon.

It is not advisable to eat in copper and hence they are given a silver coating before being used in the kitchen or dining. The silverware is exquisite, like something out of the Arabian Nights. Shops were choc a bloc with hand-beaten samovars, plates, and other utensils made of copper but polished when selected. The inlay and enamel work engraved or even embossed on the copper vessels are highly aesthetic.

Lal Chowk, Clock towerLal ChowkLal Chowk Post OfficeCopper Plate and Spoon from Srinagar

Copper Goblet SrinagarShikara SouvenirMetal Samovars

Travelogue on Srinagar-Part II

Jamia Masjid

The Jamia Masjid at Nowhatta, in the heart of the old city, is a prominent landmark of the city where thousands of people congregate for the Friday prayers. The mosque is impressive and is built around a courtyard supported by 370 wooden pillars. I felt tiny below the imposing pillars.

There is a bustling market all around it but once you enter, the hushed silence is very calming and the tranquillity gives a spiritual atmosphere. When I entered the precincts of the mosque,  I felt blessed and I sat awhile in the serene ambience imbibing the history, spirituality, and humility of millions of devout who have offered prayers there. It was originally built by Sultan Sikandar in 1400 AD, and extended by his son, Zain-ul- Abidin.

Biggest Mosque

It is a typical example of Indo-Saracenic architecture.  Destroyed thrice by fire and rebuilt each time, the mosque, as it now stands, was repaired during the reign of Maharaja Pratap Singh. Jamia Masjid is the biggest Mosque in Kashmir, known as one of the sacred shrines of Islamic followers. Be it the holiness or the constructional elegance, Jamia Masjid is quite unparalleled in every aspect. It does not have a dome but is built in Pagoda style and looks very elegant. Jamia Masjid symbolizes one of the best architectural specimens which survived the ravages of time ever since it was constructed in the valley of Jammu & Kashmir.

Jamia MasjidJamia MasjidJamia MasjidJamia Masjid 370 wooden pillars

I have covered almost the whole of Srinagar. I skipped Nageen Lake and wished I could visit the Tulip garden but they bloom only in April. That gives me an excuse to visit again!

Dry Chinar Leaf

This blog post is part of the blog challenge ‘Blogaberry Dazzle’ hosted by Cindy D’Silva and Noor Anand Chawla.

Previous blogs in the Half Marathon are-Tambola Theme Games and 6 steps to become stronger Inside Out and Luscious Lychee Fool

You can read Srinagar Travelogue Part I and Travelogue on Kashmir | Doodhpathri

 

 

Tags: dal lakedowntownhazratbalmosquekashmirlal chowkparadiseshankaracharyasrinagarwinterfell cafe
Harjeet Kaur

Harjeet Kaur

I’m Harjeet Kaur, the voice behind Wordsmithkaur, a lifestyle blog that’s ranked among India’s Top 20. My writing journey started unexpectedly with articles for The Hindu, and I even had a weekend column that had loyal readership. Over the years, I’ve juggled many hats—content creator, freelance writer, and blogger—all while nurturing my love for words. On my blog, you’ll find a little bit of everything: recipes straight from my kitchen, travel diaries, gardening tips, and stories about beauty, mental health, and sustainability. Cooking is my therapy, and I take pride in turning simple, traditional recipes into gourmet dishes—with love as my secret ingredient. I write to connect, to share, and to inspire. Whether it’s content for social media, blogs, or brochures, I thrive on crafting stories that resonate. If it’s writing you need, I’m your go-to wordsmith. Take a peek into my world—I promise there’s always something interesting waiting for you.

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Comments 38

  1. Sandhya Bhattaram says:
    4 years ago

    Absolutely beautiful place!! It’s on my travel bucket list. Beautiful post!

    Reply
    • Harjeet Kaur says:
      4 years ago

      Thank you, Sandhya..thanks for stopping by

      Reply
  2. Rajeev Moothedath says:
    4 years ago

    A beautiful post in terms of writing, pictures and the hilarious video of the flower seller as well!

    Reply
    • Harjeet Kaur says:
      4 years ago

      Thank you so much …glad you liked it 🙂

      Reply
  3. Simrit Bedi says:
    4 years ago

    Beautiful pictures Harjeet and lovely pictures. I went to Kashmir when I was 2 years old. Would love to go again someday.

    Reply
    • Harjeet Kaur says:
      4 years ago

      You should go Simrit..it is well worth it

      Reply
  4. Seema Bardeskar says:
    4 years ago

    This is such a beautiful place to visit and I have it on my list too. Hoping for things to get better and travel to this little piece of heaven.

    Reply
  5. Anjali Gupta says:
    4 years ago

    Aha! This was nostalgia…..My father has been posted in J & K for half a decade and a bit more and PCS, Srinagar is my alma mater; we have explored Kashmir like no one else but those were different times…. it w as fantastic understanding it in the present times and such heartening news that all was normal when you went over…Lovely memories and expressive descriptions! Loved it.

    Reply
  6. Pamela Mukherjee says:
    4 years ago

    What an incredible travelogue with some stunning shots. Loved the way you described Kashmir and the places. I am planning for Kashmir and this post gonna help me a lot.

    Reply
  7. Swarnali Nath says:
    4 years ago

    Harjeet Ma’am, I was so lost in these pictures of Kashmir. All the snaps are sooooo beautiful, so fresh. Loved all the snaps and I felt like every snaps were telling a new story. What I loved most is your experience with the Winterfell Cafe. But it’s not enough for me. I would like to know a lot more from you about your experience with Kommune and your storytelling. I can guess, it must have been a lifetime memory for you. So loved reading your post.

    Reply
  8. Madhu Bindra says:
    4 years ago

    Beautiful pictures. I really enjoyed reading your detailed travelogue. I visited Srinagar years back and it sure has changed quite a lot.

    Reply
  9. Shreemayee Chattopadhyay says:
    4 years ago

    The detailed description of the heaven on earth and the pictures both are just amazing. Kashmir is on my wishlist since long and your post will help me a lot to plan our trip in future.

    Reply
  10. Swati Mathur says:
    4 years ago

    Wow.. This is heaven on earth. I just can’t miss visiting this awesome place. This is definitely part of my bucket list. Thanks a lot your sharing this wonderful post with some stunning pictures.

    Reply
  11. Smita Saksena says:
    4 years ago

    So beautiful place and lovely pictures…I just want to go one day there… it’s in my bucket list … don’t know when but one day for sure!!!

    Reply
  12. Mayuri Nidigallu says:
    4 years ago

    Such a helpful and detailed travelogue, Harjeet. Loved the pictures! The storytelling session seems like a very interesting idea and glad to know that you enjoyed it. This post is a must-read for anyone planning a trip to Srinagar.

    Reply
    • Harjeet Kaur says:
      4 years ago

      Thanks, Mayuri..yes it was a great experience with known storytellers.

      Reply
  13. Vasumathi_The Scarlett Dragonfly says:
    4 years ago

    Great review of the place and lovely pictures too. Kashmir has been on my list of places to visit….just last week I was discussing this with my husband. Your post has motivated me more to go there. Hope the situation eases soon and we are able to make it.

    Reply
    • Harjeet Kaur says:
      4 years ago

      Thanks, Vasumathi…hope you get to visit soon

      Reply
  14. PRB says:
    4 years ago

    Kashmir is one of my dream destinations. Hope to be there someday! You have clicked some amazing photos, keep writing.

    Reply
  15. Jigna Vora says:
    4 years ago

    I had the luck of visiting srinagar and gulmarg a few years back…its truely a beautiful place. Loved the pictures!!! It was amazing reliving the experience with you!!

    Reply
  16. Priyanka Nair says:
    4 years ago

    I enjoyed watching the video 🙂 such a brilliant post….I don’t know when will I get a chance to visit Srinagar but reading your post has given me so many reasons to visit this place.

    Reply
  17. Raunica says:
    4 years ago

    I am fortunate to have visited this place but it was too long ago to remember much apart from the whole dal lake and garden’s experience. Looks like the beauty is still very much alive from all those Lovely pictures and would love to visit again. Will use all this information as a guide

    Reply
  18. Aditi Kapur says:
    4 years ago

    My goodness… You’ve covered Srinagar so beautifully that I feel like I’ve travelled to the magic land. Pictures, as well as the writeup, are wonderful urging me to visit Srinagar at least once in my lifetime:)
    I don’t feel like leaving this page, take it as a compliment❤

    Reply
  19. Yashila Barnwal says:
    4 years ago

    Floating market is very interesting…. I love to go there….. I have visited once…. Your blog is vere helpful for travelers….

    Reply
  20. Archana Srivastava says:
    4 years ago

    What a mesmerizing beauty of Srinagar. Thanks for taking us on a virtual visit to this beautiful serene place. Your detailed review is going to be very helpful for us. Also, I like the way the flower seller said while giving flowers to you, “Ye meri Taraf see hai .”

    Reply
  21. Suhasini I.P. says:
    4 years ago

    Srinagar is on our to-be-visited list since long. Our plans got cancelled in last minute twice due to some or other reason. Now your post is tempting me to plan once more for this trip

    Reply
    • Harjeet Kaur says:
      4 years ago

      Yes, Suhasini..i too didnt go as a tourist. I went to visit my daughter who was working there.

      Reply
  22. Abha Mondal says:
    4 years ago

    What a lovely travelogue with beautiful pictures. Adding them in my bucket list. Thanks for sharing such detailed information.

    Reply
    • Harjeet Kaur says:
      4 years ago

      Thanks, Abha..It is my pleasure.

      Reply
  23. Ritu Bindra says:
    4 years ago

    Wow, what a lovely piece, Harjeet. I am sure it was quite a trip. Love the pics. I haven’t had a chance to visit Srinagar yet. Hope to visit someday. Dad had been posted there decades back (before the unrest) and always spoke about its beauty.

    Reply
    • Harjeet Kaur says:
      4 years ago

      Oh…u didnt go when he was posted? It is a must-visit place.

      Reply
  24. MeenalSonal Mathur says:
    4 years ago

    Harjeet ji, I liked the way you are spontaneous in learning a new skill, must tell you are great learner. This post is presented as a story to the readers. Buying stuff in the floating market must be a life experience and I very much liked that you mentioned your drivers name at points and giving them credit too. And so much to take from this post, you made all of us to add Srinagar at the top in the travel list.

    Reply
    • Harjeet Kaur says:
      4 years ago

      Thank you so much dearies.I started blogging so late so I have to learn so many things. I like to know everyone around me…after all they are humans too

      Reply
    • Harjeet Kaur says:
      4 years ago

      Thanks, MeenalSonal….I wasnt a tourist for 4 days there. I went to visit my daughter who was working there. I roamed alone and I like to know simple people and their lives.

      Reply
  25. Sindhu Vinod Narayan says:
    4 years ago

    Your travelogue makes me want to travel to Srinagar. I love shikaras I hope we get to travel sooner

    Reply
    • Harjeet Kaur says:
      4 years ago

      I hope you do..it is so beautiful

      Reply
  26. Arulmozhi N says:
    4 years ago

    This is literally heaven on earth. It’s on my bucket list

    Reply
    • Harjeet Kaur says:
      4 years ago

      Thank you..it is heaven on earth

      Reply

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