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Home Blogchatter A2Z Challenge

Srinagar Travelogue | The Kashmir I Knew

The Paradise on Earth

by Harjeet Kaur
May 2, 2023
in Blogchatter A2Z Challenge
16 min read
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Boathouses on the Dal lake

Srinagar Travelogue | The Kashmir I Knew

Lotus blooming on the Dal Lake

This is the 11th post for #BlogchatterA2Z 2021 powered by Blogchatter. K for Kashmir.‘If there is a paradise on earth, it is here, it is here”, the Sufi musician and poet, Amir Khusrau aptly eulogized Kashmir as far back in time as the 12th century and it still rings true… ‘Agar firdaus baroye zameen ast, hami asto, hami asto, hami ast’. Here is my Srinagar Travelogue | The Kashmir I Knew.

My tribute to Srinagar Travelogue |The Kashmir I Knew and fell in love with. Kashmir said to come fall in love with me and I did. I fell hook, line and sinker for this heaven on earth, for the outstanding people and just for being Kashmir. From the acme of the Himalayas to the deep valleys, gushing springs and tranquil lakes, they all seduce and captivate your senses . Before you realize it, some sort of magic takes place and you actually rise in love.

There are virgin places like Doodhpathri to experience and savour Kashmiri food.

My First visit to Srinagar Travelogue | The Kashmir I Knew

Tips to Experience Srinagar

After returning from Kashmir with my priceless stash of kahwa powder, I relive my vivid memories with the wafting aroma of a steaming cup of Kahwa in my hand. I landed in Srinagar with lots of expectations and aspirations. The early sunrise helped when I went to the floating market and the late sunset when I was visiting the illuminated gardens in the city. I hired a cab to see the sights of the city, which are on the list of every tourist. When you hire a cab, ask and decide the time and places he will take you to and drive a good bargain. Do your homework well and note the places that you want to visit according to the area they are located. Ask the cabbie to take you there.

The Beauty of Srinagar, Kashmir

Srinagar, the capital city, is the jewel in the crown of Kashmir as it embodies all the proper colours of the state. It sits quietly on the banks of the Jhelum, mulling over its exuberance. The gleaming water of the Dal and Nageen Lakes with the musty smell of the houseboats and the romantic veiled Shikaras are the flowing robes of Srinagar. The divinity of the Shankaracharya temple looks down benevolently from the hilltop while the benediction of Prophet Mohammad from the Hazratbal Shrine and the Jama Masjid keeps the city blessed.

Cheshmashahi Gardens in Srinagar Travelogue | The Kashmir I Knew

My first pit stop was the small Cheshmashahi Garden, which is snugly ensconced amid the wooded hills. Shah Jehan, the Mughal Emperor, commissioned Ali Mardan Khan to build the gardens as a gift for his son Dara Shikoh. It is a part of the Zabarwan range and overlooks the Dal Lake. Security personnel added security en route as it is near the Raj Bhavan. The entry ticket is a mere 20 INR for adults and 10 INR for kids for each of the gardens.

manicured cheshmashahi garden

Cheshmashahi literally means Royal Spring, which gushes forth from the garden’s uppermost level, where there is a square fountain pool fed by a water spring directly from the mountains. I was looking wide-eyed at the spacious lawns and the flora and fauna, which are captivating. The terraced garden layout is open, and I spotted some rare flowers, gigantic Chinar trees, and tall pear trees. A flight of stairs on either side of the terraces leads to the spring, which flows down through falls and fountains to the ground level. I was looking around agape at the exquisite blossoms in myriad colours and climbed the first flight of stairs.

Memories in Images

I was approached by a genial photographer, Mr Bhat, who smooth-talked me into getting my pictures clicked in the traditional Kashmiri attire. I reluctantly agreed to 1 picture and ended up paying for 7! He volunteered to take my pictures in the garden with my camera. He saw me struggling with my selfie stick and auto click but still; I was a gullible tourist like most and succumbed to the Kashmiri charm.

Do not forget to drink the water of the spring and carry it home in a bottle. They say the cool sparkling water has curing properties. It is said that Nehru had the water of the spring flown to Delhi. They illuminate Cheshmashahi at night and it is as if the stars are sparkling on Earth. If you have time, just sit awhile on the lawns and feel the cool zephyr kiss your cheeks and you will never want to leave. There were couples everywhere soaking in the romance.

Cheshmashahi garden, Srinagar

Srinagar Travelogue | The Kashmir I Knew

Do not forget to drink the water from the spring and carry it home in a bottle. The cool sparkling water has curing properties. It is said that Nehru had the water of the spring flown to Delhi. Cheshmashahi, illuminated at night, looks as if the stars are sparkling on earth. If you have time, just sit awhile on the lawn and feel the cool zephyr kiss your cheeks and you would never want to leave. There were couples everywhere soaking in the romance.

Pari Mahal

Pari Mahal, the next stop is on the tourist map, but the cabbie will try to dissuade you from going there. Do not get taken in and insist on visiting Pari Mahal, which is just a 5-minute drive away from Cheshmashahi. Another name for Pari Mahal is “The Abode of Fairies” and it is a seven-terraced garden at the top of the Zabarwan mountain, southwest of the Dal Lake. The view from the top is breathtaking and not to be missed. Steps leading to the top are crumbling and I was breathless by the time I reached the top and sat on the edge to get my breath back. The view enthralled me and I lingered a while longer.

Dara Shikoh, the son of Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan, created the Pari Mahal in the mid of 1600s. He dedicated the garden to his Sufi teacher, Mullah Shah. Built around a small spring, Pari Mahal boasts of, beds of vivid flowers and they illuminate it at night. The entrance is typical of Mughal architecture, with an arch and a row of rooms on either side. As it is at a height it gets freezing in winter and it is best to visit in the summer. It opens at 9.30 am and closes early at 5.30 pm.

Nishat Bagh

Nishat Bagh is a 12-terraced Mughal garden built on the eastern side of Dal Lake. It is the second-largest Mughal garden and is very well maintained. Overlooking the Dal Lake, the garden overflows with flowers and the sentinel Chinars. The Nishat Bagh is a garden of bliss and has a central water channel leading to numerous fountains lined with flower beds on either side. Nur Jehan’s brother Asif Khan built this garden in 1633. Modelled along the lines of Persian gardens, the concept had to be tweaked to suit the topography and water resources in Srinagar. The twelve terraces represent the 12 signs of the zodiac and the two sections are the public garden and the private Shalimar Bagh. I didn’t find anyone to take my pictures here so I used the auto-click feature and I struggled to take a couple myself.

Nishat Bagh
Nishat Bagh overlooking the Dal Lake

Shalimar Bagh

By the time I reached Shalimar Bagh, I was a  wee bit drained as the sun was sapping my energy and I forgot to get my hat and parasol, thinking that Kashmir would give me relief from the Bezwada heat. Shalimar Bagh is one of the stupendous and exquisitely laid out gardens by the Mughal Emperor Jahangir for his beloved wife Nurjahan in 1619. It showcases the exemplary craftsmanship of the Mughals in horticulture. The Mughals sure knew how to express their love; Shalimar literally means ‘Abode of love.”

And while I was walking down one side of the fountains capturing the fountains and colossal flowers in my camera, I heard someone calling out to me. I turned around and there was this tall, stately grey-haired man relaxing on a charpoy. ” Hello daughter, how are you? He asked.” Now the said gentleman definitely didn’t look old enough to be my dad, and I was reluctant to reply, but he approached me and struck up a conversation. I said I couldn’t I be his daughter, and he placed his hand on my head in blessing and said okay then sister!

Shalimar Bagh

Wherever I went, people would approach me unabashedly and ask where I was from and why I was alone. This gentleman asked me where my partner was!! He was the head caretaker of the gardens and had been maintaining them for 38 years, now retired. He spoke impeccable English and was ever so polite. He became my self-appointed guide, giving me a brief history of the garden and insisted on clicking my pictures. And he made me pose at spots he liked and how he wanted me to pose! My trip is full of such incidents where little boys, teenage girls and others conversed were clicking my pictures clicked everywhere. Each moment spent with them was precious.

Travelogue on Srinagar, Kashmir

Srinagar Travelogue | The Kashmir I Knew

The history of Shalimar Bagh dates back to the second century in the reign of King Pravarsena, who was the founder of the city of Srinagar. He built a cottage here surrounded by a garden and named it Shalimar. In time, it came to ruins, but the name stuck on. In 1630, the garden was further expanded on the order of Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan and he named it “Faiz Baksh” meaning “the Bountiful”. Other rulers have made alterations to further stimulate its beauty. Shalimar Bagh is a typical Mughal Garden with a layout of three terraces; each terrace comprises a water fountain and pool with a water supply in series. The sound of the water of the 410 fountains falling simultaneously makes a lyrical symphony that is music to the ears.

Shalimar Garden
Sunshine Yellow flowers in Shalimar garden
Collage of Shalimar

Gulshan Book Store

I stopped for lunch on the Boulevard. As it was a sunny day to sail around the lake, I visited the Gulshan Bookstore on the Dal Lake. I am a bookworm and I HAD to check out this amazing bookstore on the lake. Even if you are not interested in books, explore the bookstore. You can go there only by Shikara.

An idyllic bookshop with a reading room and a cafe attached to it on the Nehru Park island of the Dal Lake is a book lover’s utopia. I had to hire a shikara to get there. The shikara man talked me into paying 100 bucks for the short ride. The name of the shikara was Facebook Deluxe! Once I reached the bookstore, I was told that there was a dedicated boat from the bookstore which gave free rides! I was so easily duped, but I didn’t mind it.

Gulshan Bookstore

Srinagar Travelogue | The Kashmir I Knew

The bookstore is well stocked, and the interiors have some antique curios and pictures dotting the room. For Sheikh Ajaz Ahmad, owner of the Gulshan Bookstore having a bookshop near the Dal Lake was his lifelong dream that he says he has realized finally. His great-grandfather opened the first bookstore 100 years ago on the Srinagar-Muzaffarabad highway. The bookshop remains open from 11 am to 11 pm. Even if you do not want to buy a book you can read books in the reading room that overlooks the Dal Lake and the Zabarwan Hills. I adore kids and right below I saw kids learning to kayak. It was heartening to see girls wearing a hijab and learning to paddle.

Cafeteria in Gulshan Bookstore

Cafeteria in GULSHAN BOOKSTORE

I ordered a lemon iced tea and settled down to read a book on Kashmir, but I never got around flipping a couple of pages as there were so many things to take in. Men and kids were splashing about in the fountain pools to shake off the heat, and shikaras were taking a lazy round of the lake in the late afternoon. The hills were looming in front and a cool breeze floated once every few minutes. I soaked in all this, pledging to visit again. I had to leave as the cabbie was waiting for me.

Gulshan Bookstore
Srinagar Travelogue | The Kashmir I Knew

While driving back home, I was hugging my cache of memories close to my heart to be reopened from time to time and re-lived. There is much more to explore.

If you liked my Travelogue on Srinagar, Kashmir-The Paradise on Earth please leave a note below.

My previous posts for #BlogchatterA2Z are Andhra Pachi Tomato Pachadi, Bourbon Cream Pudding, 5 Reasons to use cast iron utensils, Egg Dosa How to Make Fajitas, My First Visit to Goa Healthy Garlicky Potato Wedges, Coconut Cherry Jelly Cups

 

Tags: cheshmashai gardensgulshan bookstorekashmirKashmir-The Paradise on Earthnishat baghparadisepari mahalshalimarbaghsrinagarTravelogue on Srinagar
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Harjeet Kaur

Harjeet Kaur

My writing was limited to school essays and projects for my kids and out of the blue, my writing career began with writing articles for the magazine section of The Hindu. I had a weekend column in the newspaper which was well appreciated. Juggling my time between various jobs down the years and my writing, I have written content for fliers, brochures for colleges, speeches, social media content and also website content I love writing and I am open to writing on a plethora of topics. My blog has interesting insights into my life and travels, gardening, beauty, grooming, recipes, mental health and sustainability. I am a freelance content writer and the answer to all your content generation needs. I thrive on writing and content writing gets my adrenaline pumping. Stringing words and vocabulary is my passion as well as my bread and butter. Whether it is lifestyle content, ghostwriting, blogging, features, or articles, covers the whole gamut of writing that I can pen down. My writing has been much appreciated as it attracts, engrosses as well as captivates. I love to write on any interesting topic under the sun. Meeting new people and understanding what makes them tick is always enlightening. Communication is my strong point and I get across my thoughts right from the heart. An avid and dedicated blogger, my blog is valued by family and friends alike. My blog is ranked 14 in the Top 100 Lifestyle Blogs in India. I love to cook for family and friends and my secret ingredient- “love” is abundantly used in my cooking. It covers myriad interesting topics. I am a passionate home chef and am all for a healthy balanced diet with simple, easy-to-cook recipes. What I do is transform traditional recipes into gourmet by the turn of my ladle. Do read my blogs to know me better.

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Comments 20

  1. Varsh says:
    2 years ago

    Kashmir is truly heaven on earth. You’ve captured it’s beauty wonderfully. I wish I can go there soon to enjoy a Shikara ride in Dal lake.

    Reply
  2. Sadvika Kylash says:
    2 years ago

    I visited Kashmir while i was in school. Have vivid memories of it. all i remember was the boat house.

    Reply
  3. Pr@Gun says:
    2 years ago

    Your post makes me realise I have yet to visit and experience this heaven on Earth. For some unavoidable reasons I’m not able to visit, everytime I plan it fails. Thanks for giving picturesque tour, enjoyed the post.

    Reply
  4. Deepika says:
    2 years ago

    Such beautiful pics and your description makes it even more beautiful. Gulshan book store ia an amazing place and people there are warm and sweet. You have brought the spirit of Kashmir to the fore
    Deepika Sharma

    Reply
  5. Roma Gupta Sinha says:
    2 years ago

    You made me nostalgic, have been there umpteen times but will love to go again and again. Loved to revisit them again through your eyes though.

    Reply
  6. Surbhi Prapanna says:
    2 years ago

    I had visited many beautiful places in north India in past with my family but somehow did not get a chance to visit Kashmir and shri nagar. after reading your post feeling to visit this soon. do not know, with pandemic situation, when I would be able to visit India? lovely clicks dear.

    Reply
  7. Navita Bhatia says:
    2 years ago

    What a treat you gave by making us go through this virtual tour of paradise on earth!! Have been thinking of visiting Kashmir for quite a while but could never plan. Loved those videos of Chashmeshahi, Nishat, and Shalimar Bagh.

    Reply
  8. Roshan Radhakrishnan says:
    2 years ago

    This is pretty much a vicarious trip for all of us… God knows if i will ever get to see the place in real life considering the way things are going

    Reply
  9. Ruchi Verma says:
    2 years ago

    Nothing can match the beauty of our own Kashmir, I went there when I was 7 years old still remember my trip so well.

    Reply
  10. Swati Mathur says:
    2 years ago

    Wow.. What a detailed post with breathtaking pictures. If people call Kashmir heaven on earth.. They are not wrong.

    Reply
  11. Aditi Kapur says:
    2 years ago

    Kashmir is a beautiful place to visit. Embarrassed to say that I couldn’t visit heaven on Earth in so many years though it’s in our own country.

    Reply
  12. Radhika Jindal says:
    2 years ago

    Again an interesting blog after reading about Goa blog. You’ve shared the best for the one who hasn’t traveled there yet. Your blog is helping me to make an itinerary myself with fewer efforts.

    Reply
  13. Ujjwal Mishra says:
    2 years ago

    Oh I so want to visit Kashmir. My mother who has been to Kashmir as well as Switzerland says Kashmir is way more beautiful. Thanks for sharing your journey.

    Reply
  14. Rajeev Moothedath says:
    2 years ago

    Lovely post capturing the essence and beauty of Kashmir!

    Reply
    • Harjeet Kaur says:
      2 years ago

      Thank you so much Sir..thanks for stopping by. So check out other easy recipes as well.

      Reply
  15. Sindhu Vinod Narayan says:
    2 years ago

    These places look so refreshing. Should plan a trip post pandemic

    Reply
  16. Archana Srivastava says:
    2 years ago

    I have felt the beauty of Kashmir only through Movies and, of course, from some of my friends. I wish I could visit there at least once. Tou have truly enjoyed your trip, and your pics are evidence of it—a pure mesmerizing view.

    Reply
  17. Jyoti says:
    2 years ago

    Wow i also visited Kashmir when i was 15 and then never got chance to visit again .Kashmir is truly heaven on earth. You’ve captured it’s beauty wonderfully.

    Reply
  18. Chinmayee Gayatree Sahu says:
    2 years ago

    I have not yet visited Kashmir once also. Its on my wish list though. I loved your picture in the Shikara.And I did not know that water from the spring has healing properties. Thank you for telling us about Gulshan bookstore. I hope I am able to fulfill my dream of visiting Kashmir , some day.

    Reply
  19. Nils says:
    2 years ago

    I have never been but I definitely will someday.

    Reply

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